What makes the best shave soap?

What makes the best shave soap?

The shaving soap has traditionally been used by wet shavers for a very long time. It is the de-facto standard for wet shaving. Over time, shaving creams were also introduced into the market. While a shaving soap is usually a hard soap, shaving cream is also just “soft soap” and extra oils. They are therefore fundamentally the same. However, many people, especially young men who are starting to shave for the first time, may wonder which is the better of the two. The soap or the cream? This review will look at the different aspects and benefits of each to enable anyone who is searching for the best shave soap or cream to make the right decision.

The Shaving Cream

Taylor of Old Bond Street Shaving Cream Bowl - Sandalwood

First, it should be clear that the shaving cream being discussed here is not the type found in pressurized cans, rather it is the thick cream type that comes in a jar, tub or in a tube. Shaving creams are usually perfumed with lovely scents, but fragrance-free offers also exist. They are normally oilier than even the best shave soap which might be the preference the consumer is looking for.  Also, shaving creams require less elbow grease to make lather and this is one major reason they are so popular because making good lather from hard shaving soaps does need a little practice.

How to lather Shaving Cream

1. Put your brush in your bowl with hot water for some minutes.
2. Remove your brush and dispose of the hot water.
3. Scoop out a small dollop of cream into your bowl.
4. Using your still damp brush, swirl the cream until it turns into plenty of lather.
5. You can add a little more water if it’s too dry.

Shaving Soaps

Edwin Jagger Shaving Soap Aloe Vera SSAV

Shaving soaps have been used much longer before the advent of the shaving cream. It became more popular during World War I. The best shave soaps are usually the triple milled hard soaps and they do cost a little more. A good soap should contain a high level of fat and glycerin, about 40 to 50% fat level is optimal. This high percentage of fat is necessary to provide good lubrication and skin protection during a shaving session. One has to be careful when buying shaving soaps because many of the brands offered as high quality triple-milled shave soaps are simply not what they are claimed to be.

How to lather Shaving Soaps

1. Put your brush in your bowl with hot water for some minutes.
2. Remove your brush and dispose of the hot water.
3. Lather up the soap inside its container or your bowl using a circular motion.
4. Continue to swirl until a rich warm lather has been produced.
5. You can add a little water if you need more lather.

Shaving Soaps vs Shaving Creams

Taylor of Old Bond Street Shaving Cream Tube - SandalwoodAlthough they are both fundamentally the same, there are still differences between shaving soaps and shaving creams. Apart from the obvious fact that soaps are hard and creams are creamy, the following points will help to offer an in-depth comparison between shaving soaps and shaving creams.

Cost & Value

When it comes to costs, shaving soaps cost on average less than shaving creams. Then again, the soap that cost less than a jar of cream will outlast that jar. Therefore if you are concerned about saving costs, a hard soap is definitely the product to choose.

Fragrance

Soaps as well as creams may or may not be perfumed. When perfumed they could both be either strongly or lightly perfumed. Creams anyway, tend to retain their scents for much longer than soaps. Also creams are often more heavily scented. The best shave soap and cream fragrances include sandalwood, citrus/lime, menthol and coconut.  Sandalwood is definitely one of the most popular scents of all time.

Ease of Use

Creams are easier to turn into lather, especially for the beginner. Lathering soaps is not that much difficult anyway, it just needs a little mastering of the soap/water ratio. But once mastered, lathering a soap becomes a pleasure. The best shave soap you can lather is usually the triple milled hard soap, the softer ones just do not lather as beautifully. Anyway, for ease of use and lathering, creams win.

Sentimentality

There is a sentimentality associated with lathering a soap that you just don’t get from a shaving cream. It is a connection to the past that many shavers find irresistibly romantic. This is especially true for straight razor wet shavers who prefer shaving soaps to creams because the finer lather from soap works better for straight razors.

Conclusion

Shave soaps and creams are both acceptable for the traditional wet shaver. The choice of either one depends solely on preference and maybe on shaving method too. This is because of the cushion effect and slickness that soaps offer which is preferred by straight razor shavers. Creams on the other hand offer protection, which is preferred by safety razor shavers.

Using the best shave soap or cream will still not help if the shaver lacks an understanding of lathering techniques. Therefore learning and practice are as much important as is choosing between soap and cream. A new shaver can start with shaving cream first, and then switch to a shave soap later if he feels like it. By then, he would have become quite comfortable with lathering with a brush.  Have additional questions on which to choose?  Shoot us a quick note and we will respond quickly.

Guide to Choosing the Best Double Edge Razor Blades

Guide to Choosing the Best Double Edge Razor Blades

One of the first steps in the wet shaving routine is to choose your safety razor if you are going to wet shave with a safety razor.  After choosing your safety razor, the next step in setting up your shaving set is to choose a razor blade. Safety razor blades come from a variety of manufacturers from all over the world. Using any of the different blades, you are guaranteed a clean shave.  However, there are slight differences in the design and production of these blades that make it a necessity that any wet shaver will have to choose a particular brand to stick to.

Merkur Safety Razors

Currently there are safety razor blades from manufacturers like Merkur, Feather, Astra, Gillette, Derby and much more.  All these brands have different characteristics and it’s not very easy to see the difference visually. These different blade characteristics include sharpness, durability, price and aggressiveness. When you decide to choose the best double edge razor blades for your personal shaving routine, you must consider each of these points.

Feather-Razor-BladeSharpness
Sharpness is important in determining the best double edge razor blades for yourself. While most razors are basically sharp, some tend to be sharper than others and will therefore either be suitable or unsuitable for some people. For example, the extremely sharp blades are normally not quite suitable for beginners and others with sensitive skin.

Durability
Some razor blades may last for just 2 to 3 shaving sessions while others can last for much longer. Durability is therefore also an important factor in choosing the best double edge razor blades to make up your shaving set. The more durable a blade is, the lower its cost per shave is.

Aggressiveness
Safety razor aggressiveness has to do mainly with the design of the razor’s head, but also with the blade. The factors that affect the aggressiveness include the amount of blade that is exposed, the cutting angle of the blade as a result of the razor’s design and the size of the blade gap. When deciding on the best double edge razor blades for future use, you will have to factor in your razor’s design because using a very sharp blade with an aggressive safety razor is bound to produce plenty of razor cuts.

Price
Some safety razor blades cost as much as five times more than other lower priced models. The more expensive blades are generally of higher quality than the lower priced blades and either last much longer or are much sharper. Price is therefore also an important factor in choosing the best double edge razor for your shaving set because though you may want to stick to the higher quality models, you also have to be sure that you can afford it.

Other Factors to Consider

Coarse Hair
The coarseness of your hair is very important when considering the best double edge razor blades to become part of your shaving set. This is because of the fact that razor blade sharpness is actually relative. For example, a razor blade may be very sharp for someone with soft hair while the same blade would feel dull for another person with more coarse hair.

Skin Sensitivity
Skin sensitivity is also important when deciding on the best double edge razor blades to stick to because people with sensitive skin will have to avoid very sharp and aggressive blades and razors.  For example, the Feather Safety Blades are not the best choice for those who have very sensitive skin since these are one of the most aggressive blades on the market.

A Review of some Popular Razor Blades

Merkur Safety RazorsMerkur Safety Razor Blades

Merkur is a well known German maker of wet shaving products. Blades from Merkur, including their straight razor blades are always of very high quality. Another plus is that Merkur blades are also easily available. For beginners and wet shavers with softer hair, in search of the best double edge razor blades, Merkur safety razor blades could be the answer.

 

Feather Safety Razor BladesFeather Hi-stainless Platinum

Feather is a Japanese safety razor blade brand. It is also quite popular among wet shavers, in fact almost legendary. Feather blades can be extremely sharp and are therefore not very ideal for beginners. For long time wet shavers on the other hand, who know what they are doing, feather is worth the try.

 

 

Astra Platinum Razor BladesAstra superior Platinum

Astra blades are quite sharp but can be overly aggressive. This creates a Love-Hate relationship between them and many wet-shavers.  Made from a Russian design, these blades are usually a big hit for daily use.

 

 

 

Gillette 7 O'Clock Safety Razors Yellow BoxGillette 7 o’clock Sharp Edge

The Gillette 7 o’clock super stainless blade is a good safety razor blade for beginners. Although the blade is highly unlikely to survive more than three shaving sessions, this offer is still attractive because of its good price.

 

 

 

Derby Safety RazorsDerby Extra Super Stainless

Derby Extra blades are among the least aggressive blades in the market. Combined with its good price, Derby has grown to popularity among many wet-shavers with sensitive skin

 

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Conclusion

Choosing the best double edge razor blades is important for every shaver but nobody can know beforehand what will work and what may not. To find the ideal safety razor blade that is perfect for you, you must have to try out a few. There is simply no other way to it. You will have to take your time and go through razor blade after razor blade until you find that one blade that fits both your razor and your skin. Hopefully, this guide has shown you where to start and the aspects to watch out for.

How to identify the best shaving brush

How to identify the best shaving brush

When it comes to wet shaving, the shaving brush is simply the most indispensable tool you can own. Notwithstanding the numerous recent shaving cream and gel developments, of which some even come in pressurized cans and are marketed as modern brush-less creams, there is still a big difference between using a shaving brush to apply lather and using not using one at all.  Many men believe that a shaving brush is not needed in the wet shaving process.  Read more to find out why these men are misinformed about the many benefits of the shaving brush.

 

The Benefits of using a Shaving Brush

best shaving brushA shaving brush helps to create a richer lather with water which helps create a cleaner shave by opening up more pores in addition to lubricating the skin. This application reduces razor dragging and skipping which could create harmful bumps and spots on the human face. Using a shaving brush to apply the lather in a circular motion helps lift facial hairs better than when the cream is applied by hand which reduces the probability of painful ingrown hairs.  Using a brush helps to gently remove old dead cells from the outermost skin layer. The best shaving brush, which we will get to shortly, will therefore combine some or all of these benefits.

The parts of a Shaving Brush include the loft, the knot and the overall height. The knot is the bundle of bristles while the loft is its length. When choosing the best shaving brush for yourself, you may want to consider the two types of shapes of the loft tips and which one you may prefer. This is because some of the tips are spread out wide like a fan and others are bulb shaped.

The Different Types of Shaving Brushes

There are basically two types of shaving brushes depending on the material of the knot. There are natural brushes which include boar, horse and badger hairs and there are also synthetic brushes which are made from non-natural bristles.

Synthetic Shaving Brushes

Edwin Jagger Synthetic Brush - Ivory - 21P37Synthetic shaving brushes are normally made from nylon but can also be made from other synthetic materials during the manufacturing process.  Synthetic brushes can be the best shaving brush for some people, like vegans who prefer them to brushes made from animal parts. Performance-wise, synthetic hair brushes rank better than boar brushes but below badger brushes.  Synthetic brushes do have their advantages and the following is a short list of the pros and cons you will be interested in knowing regarding synthetic brushes.

The Pros of Synthetic Shaving Brushes

– Durability
Synthetic fibers are normally stronger than natural fibers and can therefore last for much longer.

– Quick Drying
After washing, synthetic fibers will dry much quicker than natural hairs.

– Animal Rights
Using synthetic fibers gives a vegan or any other animal friend peace of mind.

The Cons of Synthetic Shaving Brushes

– Natural Feel
Synthetic bristles generally lack the softness at the tip that most natural bristles have. Though some can be quite soft at the tips, their softness is still less than those of natural fibers.

– Water Retention
Synthetic brushes are insensitive to water and can therefore not hold moisture for a long period like natural fibers.

– Backbone Feel
The backbone feel of a natural fiber brush can be varied by soaking it in water but this is not the case with synthetic fabrics because they are insensitive to water.

Boar Shaving Brushes

Boar brushes are made from bristles taken from boars. They can be quite coarse at first, but they tend to get softer with time. They normally retain less water than badger bristles and no matter how much softer they get, they always remain harder on the skin than badger bristles. However, the very low prices of boar shaving brushes do make them attractive to some people.

Horse Hair Brushes

Shaving brushes made from horse hair are usually much softer and less coarse than boar bristles. They are still stiffer than badger bristles anyway and their colors are as varied as horse colors are. They are simply cut off from the tail of the horse, therefore no animal is actually harmed for their production.

Badger Brushes

Simpsons Shaving Brush - Beaufort B1 Pure BadgerBadger bristles are considered the best material for making shaving brushes. They can retain more water and make more lather than the other materials. Plus they are quite soft and have a gentler feel to the skin than bristles from other materials. The best shaving brush for most non-vegans are usually badger brushes. There are four grades of badger hair, depending on how fine or coarse they are, which is mostly as a result of the part of the badger that the hair came from.

– Pure Badger
Pure Badger hair is the most widely available grade of badger hair. It is made from a large percentage of the badger’s body and represents the lower grade of badger shaving brushes. They are the coarsest and stiffest.  However, these badger brushes do provide a great beginners option for someone who is just starting out with wet shaving.

 

– Best Badger
Best grade badger bristles are finer and softer than the pure grade bristles. The colors range form gray to a lighter brown and they can hold much more water than pure grade bristles. They are taken mostly from the belly areas of the badger.  Another great option for someone who wants a great shaving brush for a super affordable price.

– Super Badger
Super badger grade of hair is even more finer and softer than the best grade. They are obtained from the back of the badger and are as such pretty rare.  They usually have a black banded midsection with whiter tips than the pure and best grades.

– Silver-tip Badger
Silver-tip badger hairs are obtained from the neck of the badger. They are the most rare badger hair segment compared to the other grades and also more expensive. Silver-tip bristles are the finest and softest grade of badger hair for shaving brushes. They are used in manufacturing the best shaving brush that a man could buy.  If you demand the best of the best and are willing to pay for it, you can get the Silver-tip badger brush and be a very happy wet shaver for a very long time because this is the best shaving brush hairs money can buy.

6 Best Shaving Brush Options

Edwin Jagger Synthetic Brush - Faux Tortoise Shell - 21P131. Edwin Jagger 21P13 – Synthetic Brush with Faux Tortoise Shell

The Edwin Jagger 21P13 is a high quality synthetic shaving brush with a beautiful brown faux tortoise shell handle. It is perfect for beginners and the best shaving brush for vegans and other animal friends.

 

 

Edwin Jagger SilverTip Badger Brush & Stand - 1EJ467SDS2. Edwin Jagger 1EJ467SDS – Silver-Tip Badger Brush with Stand

The 1EJ467SDS from Edwin Jagger is made from the highest quality silver-tip badger bristles. This brush comes in a beautiful faux ivory handle and a matching ivory stand. If you really want the best shaving brush that you can afford, you have found it here.

 

 

Edwin Jagger Shaving Brush - Super Badger & Stand - 1EJ287SDS3. Edwin Jagger 1EJ287SDS – Super Badger Shaving Brush with Stand

The second best shaving brush in this list is this super badger brush from Edwin Jagger. It comes with its own standing kit and in a faux ivory handle.

 

 

Edwin Jagger Shaving Brush - Ebony Best Badger - 1EJ8764. Edwin Jagger 1EJ876 – Ebony Best Badger Shaving Brush

The Edwin Jagger 1EJ876 is a very cost effective shaving brush of the best badger grade. Though not as expensive as the previous two products, the best badger grade still offers some considerable quality. This brush comes in a faux ebony handle.

 

 

Simpsons Shaving Brush company has provided quality brushes for almost a 100 years which include models such as the Special S1 Pure Badger.5. Simpsons Special S1 – Pure Badger Shaving Brush

The Special S1 is a high quality pure badger brush from Simpsons, a well renowned brush maker. Combining a good price with a good quality brush, this product offers great value for the money.

 

 

Simpsons Shaving Brush - Duke D1 Best Badger6. Simpsons Duke D1 Best Badger Shaving Brush

The Duke D1 from the Simpsons shaving brush line is a thick handled high quality shaving brush which is made to please during the wet shaving process.  This high quality brush is one of the best sellers today and continues to attract wet shavers all over the world from it’s unique look, feel and design.

 

Conclusion

The winner is simple. The best shaving brush if money isn’t an option is the silver-tip badger brush. However, if you would like to spend less money on a brush since you are just starting out with wet shaving or want to add a great cost effective brush to your shaving tools, be sure to try any of the pure or best badger brushes mentioned.  Ultimately, it comes down to preference so don’t overthink the brush options too much.  Try one brush and jumpstart your journey today.  If you have questions about this article or any of our products, please feel free to contact us anytime.  We will be more than happy to assist you.

The History of Wet Shaving

The History of Wet Shaving

Wet Shaving

Wet shaving is the practice of wetting the face first with hot or warm water and applying shaving cream before the actual act of shaving itself. This art of shaving is a very old tradition that dates back into antiquity. There is no definite date when it can be said that the first human being decided to shave himself, but there are archaeological findings and cave paintings that indicate that early-man must have used seashells as tweezers to pull off facial hair as early as 100,000 years BC. By 30,000 BC, shaving had evolved to the use of flint blades in scraping the face.

Wet ShavingThe pharaohs of ancient Egypt are known to completely shave both their facial hairs and to shave their heads bald. But their method of shaving on the other hand is not exactly known. Circular bronze and gold razors have been found in Egyptian burial chambers which suggest that they definitely used razors in shaving. Also the oldest documented use of shaving cream is as early as 3,000 BC in Sumer and given the link between the Sumerian and Old Egyptian civilizations, one can safely assume that the Pharaohs did also practice some sort of wet shaving. They also used the same form of shaving cream like the Sumerians, made from animal fats and wood-ash. Although it is difficult to say exactly, this started most probably earlier in history, or latest by 3,000 BC.

Up until the fourth century BC, shaving was basically for noblemen and royalty who would often have a house barber in permanent employment. This was until Alexander the great ordered all his men to shave so that their enemies would have nothing to hold on to in close combat. Shaving then started to become trendy. About a century before this period, Roman commercial barbers who offered their services in barber salons appeared in history. They reportedly used iron razors and like the Egyptians would first use the razors to cut the hair low and then finish off by rubbing the stubbles off with pumice stones. They also employed the use of oils as a shaving cream and since then, the art and science of wet shaving has continued to evolve. The razor designs were improved on and even fancy razors with gold handles and decorations were made.

For roughly the next two thousand years, there was hardly any further significant development in shaving. The shape of the modern straight razor was already developed back in those Roman times, but the iron blades they used easily went blunt and had to be steadily sharpened. The next development would have to come from England in the eighteenth century AD when man finally learned how to work steel. Shaving creams too didn’t get much significant improvement. But the fine art of shaving wet evolved in this period. The initial wrapping of the face in hot towel, the application of shaving creams and solutions, the shave and after-shave services all made the barber-shop a delightful place to visit and with time, these techniques were also perfected.

The Time-line of Razor Development

-100,000 BC
Early man used seashells as tweezers to pull hair from face.

– 30,000 BC
Blades are made from flint.

– 3,000 BC
Razors are made from copper.
Shaving creams are being developed.

– 1,200 BC
Razors with bronze blades are made.

– 400 BC
Razors with iron blades are used.

– 1740 AD
Benjamin Huntsman sells first straight razors with hollow-ground blades made from Sheffield steel. Till today, straight razors haven’t changed much in design. A current modern straight razor can be found by viewing this new age Dovo Straight Razor.

Wet Shaving– 1847 AD
William Henson invents the hoe-shaped razor, which is the shape of the current safety razor. This razor design makes it possible for more and more people to shave by themselves instead of going to the barber. This is because shaving with a safety razor is much less risky than with a straight razor. But such a design still needed that the blade be sharpened every now and then.

 

 

Wet Shaving– 1895 AD
A traveling salesman, King Camp Gillette combines the hoe shaped safety razor with a disposable double-edged blade design. He sold the razor very cheaply at a loss but made a huge fortune from the blades which were meant to be used just once and then discarded. His invention also won a contract from the US Army for 3.5 million razors and 32 million blades during the first world war. The soldiers were encouraged to shave often and when they returned, they were also allowed to keep their razors. This made them continue to purchase Gillette’s blades which turned him into a very rich man. The design hasn’t changed much since then and popular Merkur and Edwin Jagger safety razors still look the same way.

Wet Shaving– 1927
Lt. Col Jacob Schick of the U.S. Army invents the first electric dry shaver. It becomes a hit and he sells millions of units. Although dry shaving with an electric shaver was less desirable than wet shaving, the relatively high price of replacement blades for safety razors pushed people away from it. Over the years, the safety razors started to loose market share to the electric dry shavers. Barbers were also loosing their jobs.

 

 

– 1960
Wilkinson makes the first disposable stainless steel blade. It was cheap and could be used a few times before disposal. Gillette and other firms follow suit, consumers love the blades and wet shaving was again very affordable and popular. This disposable stainless steel blade is still manufactured today and used all over the world for clean, efficient and cost-effective shaving.

– 1974
Bic manufactures the disposable shaving stick and other firms follow suit. Soon Gillette is manufacturing double bladed and triple bladed cartridge shavers. This development has continued today into products like the Gillette Mach3 Razor. But while the Mach3 may be more effective than disposable shaving sticks, the single bladed double-edged safety razor is more effective than the Mach3 and similar products. But in the end, the straight razor remains the most effective means of shaving.

 

The Lost Art of Wet Shaving

Wet ShavingIn the middle-ages, the badger hair brush became a part of shaving culture which by now involved the use of hard soaps to whip up a lather. In 1840, the Walnut Oil Military Shaving Soap from Vroom and Fowler became one of the first soaps dedicated solely to shaving.

When in the 20 century, the safety razor had gained much popularity, especially after the first world war and many men had taken to shaving by themselves, a new culture developed. This new male culture was the morning ritual of wet shaving with a single bladed safety razor. And although many changes have come and gone, like electric dry shavers and canned shaving creams, none of them could offer the efficiency and psychological benefits of the wet shave.

 

The Resurgence of Wet Shaving

Wet Shaving

The romantic and positive therapeutic effect of taking the time to hydrate your face with warm-to-hot water, then applying a pre-shave solution, and then using a brush, apply your shaving cream before shaving and applying aftershave is well known to many men. Even many retailers of shaving products have reported an increase in sales of straight razor shaving kits like this straight razor bundle after having seen James Bond’s erotic close shave with a straight razor from Bond-girl Eve in the 2012 movie Skyfall where she also commented “Sometimes the old ways are the best”.

Edwin Jagger Safety Razor R35611SR

Although the straight razor is the best razor for wet shaving, it is still regarded as only for the most daring of men, because of the dangers of shaving with it. This is where the traditional double edged safety razor comes in and this is the reason it is also very popular and has recently been increasing in popularity too. Some of the reasons many men give for reverting to wet shaving include:
– Cheaper cost per shave.
– Male Tradition (“wanting to shave like the ancestors did”).
Clean shave.
– Avoiding skin conditions such as ingrown hairs.
– Environmental concerns.
– Pleasure
There is much pleasure to be gained from shaving yourself daily with a traditional single bladed razor. Looking at yourself in that mirror with your cream covered face will remind you each day of who you are and how far you have come.

Wet Shaving

For any man who would like to try out wet shaving using a double-edged safety razor in the traditional way, there are pre-packaged sets like this Merkur Safety Razor Set. It is also possible to build your own bundle from scratch.  We hope you have enjoyed this historical background provided on the art of wet shaving.  Please feel free to contact us with any questions on any of our fine shaving products.